About a year ago, we were invited to a home in Larchmont to meet a famed French perfumer, who’d created iconic scents for Dior and Gaultier. His name was Francis Kurkdjian, and he was launching a new line of scents under his newly opened Maison under his own name. Along with Serge Lutens and Frederic Malle (all French – no coincidence), Kurkdjian is considered one of the great perfumers in the world – he’s created more than 20 of the best selling fragrances of all time and received a number of great reviews and awards. His entire line, including candles, debuted at Neiman Marcus a year ago, and now the brand and the store will have a little scented anniversary party. Marc Chaya, CEO of Maison Francis Kurkdjian, will be sharing innovative fragrance tips as well as the entire Maison Francis Kurkdjian product line at Neiman Marcus in Beverly Hills. The eponymous collection features cologne, eau de toilettes, eau de perfume, candles, interior perfumes, incense papers, a perfumed bracelet and even a unique collection of scented bubbles. If you have not smelled any of the master’s scents – and there are a few, including mens’ – we suggest you hit Neiman Marcus next week on Thursday September 9, between 1pm and 6pm, and be prepared to smell amazing. Every time I wear his fragrance called Ce Soir, I have a million people asking about it. And most of them are men. This is the effect I was going for! – Merle Ginsberg

To go with all these very tailored fall looks – skinny pantsuits, full skirts with tight tops, pencil skirts with blouses and jackets – one needs a more structured handbag. Those soft leathery shoulder bags you’ve been wearing that slouch, bright colors, and very very long straps – gone, kids. Put them in the back of the closet. This fall, it’s about a structured bag – but since designers know women can’t handle small bags – it’s about the structured bag with a bit of softness. Call it The Structured Hobo: the straps are way shorter, only a few of these bags can be worn on your shoulder. The colors are new, as well as the shapes. They are all on NeimanMarcus.com:

– Merle Ginsberg

Fashion’s Night Out (Sept 10th this year), its second annual, is spreading like wildfire! The Rodeo Drive celebration will be major this year, with celebs, retailers, and this year, L.A. does not have to feel like N.Y.’s back-burner stepchild. But it’s not just Beverly Hills now – the Westfield Toganga mall will be the San Fernando Valley’s official FNO location, for those who are allergic to coming “over the hill” to the west side. They have over 50 retailers in this mall, so there will be a lot of activity. It will kick off with a VIP reception will be held from 5-6:30pm to get things off to a good start.. The Neiman Marcus there is planning events all over its store, including a runway show, special Fashion’s Night Out inspired dinner menu at the NM Café, makeovers and gifts in cosmetics, a photo booth, trunk shows and special collections throughout the store. Designer Sue Wong will be on hand to meet shoppers and help them pick pieces from her collection. Additional retailer events include exclusive shopping, fashion and art shows, like these: a shoe giveaway at Jimmy Choo, a special event at Nordstrom, Gap and Banana Republic’s offer of 25% off of any $100 purchase and Westfield Topanga’s own offer – customers spending $250 at participating retailers will receive a $50 Westfield Gift Card by AmericanExpress while supplies last.

And participating in all the festivities are stores such as AIX Armani Exchange, Banana Republic, Bare Escentuals, BCBG Max Azria, BeautiFeel, Ben Bridge Jeweler, Betsey Johnson, Carlton Hair International, charles david, Chinese Laundry, Cole Haan, Dermalogica, Frederick’s of Hollywood, Free People, Gap, Guess, Guess by Marciano, Hugo Boss, Jimmy Choo, Kate Spade, Kay Jewelers, Kiehl’s Since 1851, Lucky Brand Jeans, Madison, MAXSTUDIO.COM, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Sketchers, Stuart Weitzman, Tiffany & Co, Tourneau and True Religion Brand Jeans. There’s got to be something in one or more of these stores that you want – it would be a good night to have some fun while you’re shopping.

We know that for fall 2010, it’s the return of guy look for girls: tailored jackets and trousers are the rage, and we’re going to see dresses going bye bye, at least till spring. Neiman Marcus’ Creative Director Ken Downing told us Neimans is really going to push the pantsuit for women look. Well, Rick Owens went in the other direction for his Paris menswear show this week: the girl look for guys. We had to blow these pictures up very big to make sure these models were NOT girls, in fact. What with one shoulder t shirts, tunics long enough to be dresses, and some of the male models having long hair and frail shoulders – they all had that skinny wasted look that’s so popular in England right now – it showed androgyny actually CAN work the other way around. The entire spring 2011 collection for men was in black and white, and would probably look just as good on a woman. Maybe even better.

Every spring for the last three years, an organization called Britwalk has events in Anglophilia Los Angeles and San Francisco. It celebrates British film and fashion and food in L.A. The BritWalk Map takes you on a tour of numerous stores, restaurants and hotels, and includes many Special Offers available only during BritWeek. A downloadable BritWalk Map will be available on Britweek.com any minute, but we can tell you that the incomparable British fashion legend Zandra Rhodes will be appearing at Neiman Marcus Beverly Hills on April 21 and 22 this week, holding court on the second floor from 10 to 4 pm each of those days. She’s the original British eccentric flamboyant, and her seventies clothing is heavily collected by vintage lovers.

Among the other many brands participating in BritWalk 2010 are these. You can call the stores or restaurants and see if they’re running special sales. Many are!

Fashion & Lifestyle

• Ben Sherman at Beverly Center • 8500 Beverly Blvd • 310-657-3400
• Burberry at Beverly Center• 8500 Beverly Blvd • 310-550-4500
• Karen Millen at Beverly Center • 8500 Beverly Blvd • 310-659-8220
• The Body Shop at Beverly Center • 8500 Beverly Blvd • 310-659-7513
• Thomas Pink Westfield Mall • 10251 Santa Monica Blvd • 310-843-0014
• Ted Baker • 131 N Robertson Blvd • 310-550-7855
• Burberry • 9560 Wilshire Blvd • 310-550-4500
• Anya Hindmarch • 118 S. Robertson Blvd • 310-271-9707
• Neiman Marcus • 9700 Wilshire Blvd • 310-550-5900
• Saks Fifth Avenue • 9600 Wilshire Blvd • 310-275-4211
• Barney’s New York • 9570 Wilshire Blvd • 310-276-4400
• Jo Malone at Neiman Marcus • 9700 Wilshire Blvd • 310-550-5900
• Stella McCartney • 8823 Beverly Blvd • 310-273-7051
• Turnbull and Asser • 9633 Brighton Way • 310-550-7600
• Reiss • 145 N Robertson Blvd • 310-276-0060
• Jigsaw London • 314 N Beverly Drive • 310-271-7988
• All Saints • 100 N Robertson • 310-432-8484
• Madame Tussauds Hollywood • 6933 Hollywood Blvd • 323-798-1680
• The Organic Pharmacy • 453 N Beverly Dr • 310-272-8791
• Sassoon Salon • 9403 Little Santa Monica Blvd @ Canon Drive • 310-274-8791
• Essensuals London Hairdressing • 8126 Melrose Ave • 323-782-8882

Rodeo Drive

• Jimmy Choo • 240 N Rodeo Dr • 310-860-9045
• Garrard • 202 N Rodeo Dr • 877-222-1735
• Smythson • 222 N Rodeo Dr • 310-550-1901

Shops on Melrose

• Fred Segal • 8100 Melrose Ave • 323-655-9500
• English Laundry • 7519 Melrose Ave • 323-782-9429
• Alexander McQueen • 8379 Melrose Ave • 323-782-4983
• Coco de Mer • 8618 Melrose Ave • 310-652-0311
• Paul Smith • 8221 Melrose Ave • 323-951-4800
• Temperley London • 8452 Melrose Place • 323-782-8000

Hotels

• The Peninsula Beverly Hills • 9882 S Santa Monica Blvd • 310-551-2888
• Four Seasons Hotel • 300 S Doheny Dr • 310-273-2222
• The London West Hollywood • 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd, West Hollywood • 866-282-4560
• The Palihouse Hotel • 8465 Holloway Dr, West Hollywood • 323-327-9702

Jewelry

• Asprey (Beverly Hills Hotel) • 9641 Sunset Blvd • 310-550-0520

Interiors

• Farrow and Ball • 8475 Melrose Ave • 323-655-4499
• The Rug Company • 8202 Melrose Ave • 323-653-0303
• Shabby Chic • 1013 Montana Ave • 310-394-1975
• Christopher Farr • 748 N La Cienega Blvd • 310-967-0064
• Christopher Guy • 9699 Wilshire Boulevard • Beverly Hills • 310 385 7876

Automobile

• Aston Martin • 8833 West Olympic Blvd • Beverly Hills
• Bentley • 8900 Wilshire Blvd • Beverly Hills
• Jaguar • 9176 Sunset Blvd • Los Angeles
• Mini Cooper • 4270 Lankershim Blvd • North Hollywood

Santa Monica

• Shabby Chic • 1013 Montana Ave • 310-394-1975
• London Sole • 1331 Montana Ave • 310-255-0937
• A+R • 1121 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice • 800-913-0071
• Jigsaw London• Brentwood Country Mart • 225 26th Street • 310-395-8883

Markets,Tea Rooms & Pubs:

• Irish Import Shop 738 North Vine St., Hollywood 323-467-6714
• British Connection 4413 Torrance Blvd, Torrance 310-214-1790
• Continental Shop 1618 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica 310-860-9045
• Mel & Rose 8344 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles 323-655-5557
• The Tudor House 1403-1409 2nd St., Santa Monica • 310-451-4107
• Ye Olde Kings Head Shoppe 132 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica • 310-394-8765
• Rose Tree Cottage 801 S Pasadena Ave • 626-793-3337
• Cat and Fiddle Pub 6330 Sunset Blvd, Hollywood • 323-468-3800
• Beachwood Market 2701 Belden Dr, Hollywood • 323-464-7154
• Cost Plus World Market (Farmers Market/The Grove) 6333 West 3rd St., Los Angeles • 323-935-5530
• Canyon Country Store 2108 Laurel Canyon Blvd, Los Angeles • 323-654-8091
• Fanciful Gift Baskets 5617 Melrose Ave • 323-466-1351

Restaurants:

• The Hall at Palihouse 8465 Holloway Dr., West Hollywood • 323-327-9702
• The Fig Restaurant – Fairmont Miramar Hotel and Bungalows 101 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica • 310-319-3111
• Waterloo & City Restaurant 12517 Washington Blvd, Culver City
• Cecconi’s 8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood • 310-432-2000
• The Belvedere at The Peninsula Beverly Hills 9882 South Santa Monica Blvd • 310-975-2736
• The Roof at The Peninsula Beverly Hills 9882 South Santa Monica Blvd • 310-975-2848

Just when you thought it was safe to start shopping for spring clothes with the rains drying up and the sun coming out – come the fall trunk shows! And it’s always interesting information to have to see what the fall 2010/2011 clothing looks like, before purchasing your spring wardrobe. And a lot of the army and military trend of this spring’s clothes carries through to fall, which is very helpful. But for those who like to shop on the VERY early side, meet the designers, and be able to make sure they get those HOT editorial pieces, trunk shows at Saks, Neimans or Barneys is the only way to go. Even if you don’t want to shop, you can sure see a lot of great looks, get inspired, and formulate your look in your head. Barneys is showing Lanvin fall 2010 with a trunk show today, March 22, and Tuesday March 23. These pieces go FAST, so the hardcore Lanvin shoppers always come out for a Lanvin t.s. Designer Albert Albaz, however, will NOT be on hard – c’est dommage, he’s such a delight!! Here are some great looks from fall 2010 Lanvin, and Barney’s BH window has some amazing pieces in the window right now! But New York designers Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco of KaufmanFranco WILL be on hand for their F/W 2010 trunk show at Neiman Marcus this week on Tuesday March 23 and Wednesday March 24, 11 am to 4 pm. They are best known for sleek little dresses, often worn by celebs these days, like Kate Beckinsale, Taylor Swift and Jennifer Lopez – and KF is really turning into a great NY collection that also works in Hollywood – that’s not true of all NY designers.

On Friday March 19th, Donna Karan dropped into Neiman Marcus Beverly Hills to show her spring 2010 collection to the ladies who love her and her easy-to-wear yet sophisticated clothing. She was accompanied by Neiman Marcus Fashion Director Ken Downing, dressed in a slim grey suit and white shirt, who was just back from the Paris fall shows. Donna was wearing one of her spring 2010 mis-matched suits: a straight skirt in a grey slate washed-out denim type fiber, with a jacket in a a slightly darker shade that was belted and fell below the hips with ragged edges. She wore a long heavy cotton grey scarf, and brown leather strappy flat sandals. In other words, casual comfortable chic, but dressed up enough for any city in springtime. She was accompanied by her longtime pr woman Patti Cohen, in a similar spring style of Donna Karan collection. The program started with Donna and Ken showing the spring 2010 pieces on an impromptu runway between folding chairs, where ladies oooed and ahhhhed over the clothes, deciding which ones they’d purchase. In fact, Donna brought many into her boutique after the show and lecture, to help them try on pieces and style them herself. She’s such a hit with\ shoppers – smart, funny, self-deprecating, and utterly down to earth. She’s the earth mama of fashion – with incredible flair and a bodysuit. – Merle Ginsberg

FASHIONRULES: Your NY fall show was fantastic and chic. What have you been doing since showing in early February?

DONNA KARAN: I don’t rest on my laurels for long! I went to London. People thought it was for fashion week -but it was to speak at a center on women’s spirituality and Kabbalah.

FASHIONRULES: We’d love to talk about fall 2010- but it won’t be in the store till July or August, so let’s talk about the spring collection you can buy at Neiman Marcus right now that you’re showing today.

DONNA KARAN: Yes, we shouldn’t linger on things you can’t have yet! This spring summer collection is all about atmosphere. Nature. The beach. Think Malibu or the Hamptons. All of nature talks to me – the sky, water. The colors are very cloudlike, if you notice, and the color of stones with water running over them.

FASHIONRULES: How do you start designing a collection?

DONNA KARAN: It all starts with the fabric. The fabric has to talk. I have a conversation with the fabric. I was thinking clouds, and about wind blowing – a lot of these dresses and skirts and even the light coats from spring summer are like a wisp of fabric blowing over the body – very soft. Fashion is really all about your body. And it’s all an illusion, isn’t it? Most of us don’t look like these models who are here today. I am wearing the same look as that model – but I feel like I’m two of her! But the reality is – she has to wear it, and so do I! My clothes are very forgiving – they almost all stretch, and the idea is to camouflage the things you want to hide, and show the things that look great. No one has fat shoulders! I always show as much shoulder as possible! Your shoulders will never gain weight!

KEN DOWNING: I love it when you get sexy. These clothes are very sexy.

DONNA KARAN: To me, the word is “sensual.” Sensuality – these fabrics caress the body, they’re not obvious. I love the nude jersey wrap dress. Gwyneth Paltrow wore that one already. I love nude color against the skin – that is real sensuality. Skin is what it’s all about. Draping soft fabric on skin is sensual. I like the whisper of a scarf over a dress in a very light fabric. Our leather jackets this season are in very pale green or stone and they’re belted and flare out on top of the straight skirt. These leathers are weightless and I love the idea of wearing leather in the spring and summer – it’s the perfect fabric. And particularly for Los Angeles.

FASHIONRULES: You did a poppy red wrap dress with a full skirt, and a poppy long red gown – you don’t usually do such strong colors – just black or neutrals.

DONNA KARAN: Talk about a red carpet, right? I love the idea of this weightless gauze red jacket over a red jersey dress. Layers create effortlessness and go to so many different activities and through any time of day. Again, the gauze coat creates an illusion – it hides the curves and the arms, but you can see through it to skin. And yes, after 25 years in the business, I’m still doing wrap dresses. Who would think I would still be wrapping? I could actually call myself a “rapper.”

FASHIONRULES: In this collection, there are a few t shirt dresses that are ruched and draped and assympetrical.

DONNA KARAN: Yes, I’ve always loved light jersey t-shirt dresses. This is the NEW t-shirt dress. It’s got more fabric
and therefore it’s a bit dressier – it’s day into evening.

FASHIONRULES: You created a new kind of suit look here – a burlap jacket that’s a bit rough but beautifully shaped with a waist and hips, and then a straight skirt in jersey over cotton.

DONNA KARAN: Yes, my goal was to create a new suit – a more modern one. This was the challenge of the collection. Women work and travel and need suits – but they want them to be feminine and easy and light. There’s some origami folds in the hem of the jacket and in the skirt, a little bit of crunch in the fabrics. The fabric designed itself – it tells us what it wants to do!

FASHIONRULES: Some of the gowns and longer dresses are floaty but also really sexy – and ethereal, too. They’re both modern and a bit like the 1920′s.

DONNA KARAN: Having an emotion with the clothes is what I’m after – I want the clothes to take you on a journey somewhere. If you don’t feel something, it’s not working.

FASHIONRULES: You’ve become as well known for your devotion to zen, spirituality and wellness, as you have as a fashion designer, it seems.

DONNA KARAN: Well, I like the idea of dressing people from the inside out. Clothes should whisper your secrets. It became imperative to me to create a community of consciousness. I wanted to dress people – and address people. We have to look just outside ourselves for inspiration. That’s why I created the line Urban Zen. For instance, when it comes to healthcare, we’re really talking about “insurance care.” What about patient care? I created something in Urban Zen called the Integrated Therapist Program seminars. After all – who treats the patient? How does a patient deal with a life threatening disease? I lived through that with my late husband. That was my journey. I love the idea of healing, in whatever way we can. I also started a program that is about spirituality and kids. I wanted to bring yoga and nutrition to schools.

FASHIONRULES: These are very L.A. concepts! And you are such a NY person!

DONNA KARAN: Well – truthfully – L.A. is a place that I love! I wish I could spend more time here!

Tomorrow night, Thursday March 4th, Fashionrules is part of the whole Neiman Marcus introduction of their spring 2010 collections. Fashionrules will be selling limited edition t shirts and totes at NM’s across the country, as the stores stay open late tomorrow night to show off the new looks of sportswear pieces, military themes and safari – the hot trends of 2010. In the Beverly Hills store, there will be several fun things going on, open to the public: NM Fashion Director Ken Downing, who’s at Paris fashion week, will do a satellite video from Europe, with an update on fall 2010 trends – hot! (Our favorite so far was Dolce in Milan.) Famed iconic fashion photographer Melvin Sokolsky will be in the store, signing books – and that man is just a lesson. Then a number of major Neimans execs will be in from Dallas to show off Neiman’s new “Art of Fashion” – it’s spring campaign of 16 looks of major designer outfits, all different, with photos shot by Matthew Rolston – they’re in the windows of the Beverly Hills store this week, check them out. Rolston had a major presentation at Art College of Pasadena this fall, and is certainly having a major moment of recognition and artistry. This reporter/editor from Fashionrules will be asking him questions about the shoot, and what it was like to collaborate with the grand Neiman Marcus on windows, an ad campaign, a huge meta project. The events start on Wilshire in BH at 6:30, and go till 8:30 or 9pm – and it’s free and open to the public. The Rolston part will be at 8pm on the second floor. – Merle Ginsberg

On Tuesday night, Oct 27, Jason Wu will be doing a spring 2010 trunk show at Neiman Marcus, and feted by some editors, writers, bloggers, and major shoppers. And why not? His spring 2010 collection shown in NY in September was memorable for its cascading ruffles, beautiful jeweled purples and mustards, and his corset dresses with little bell-shaped skirts. That is from 6:30 to 8:30, and FashionRules will be chatting with The Fantastic Mr. Wu and report back to you. Maybe he’ll even let us in on what he’s thinking about fall 2010.
After that, L.A. designer Corey Lynn Calter will be showing her spring 2010 at a dinner and show to be held on Melrose Place in a private space. We can’t remember a designer who’s sprung for dinner in forever!!! That harkens back to the days before Sept 08. But as her collections continue to thrive at Anthropologie and Hilary Rush, we applaud her great price points and cute dresses, and will show you photos of her easy on the eyes and purse spring clothes on Wednesday.