We didn’t love “Glee’s” Dianna Agron in this birthday-cake shaped pink lace Carolina Herrera dress at the Emmy’s when we first saw it. It’s a very old world dress – the lace work and colors are amazing – but it seemed to belong on a much older or stodgier woman. It’s really a New York society, opening night at the ballet kind of dress. It’s almost too sweet with its color and all that lace. However, further examination made us decide we were wrong: she looks breathtaking in this. If her hair were not up, if she weren’t so young and lovely, it probably would have been all wrong. BUT – given her youth, beauty and clean hair and makeup, it actually looks gorgeous on her. Interesting that both Lea Michelle and Dianna Agron went for very old world style gowns with largess – Lea’s was Oscar de la Renta – and they both looked great, and pretty much stole the night from more established stars.

This is how the much-anticipated fall fashion season comes upon us:

• The New York Times T Fashion Magazine for fall comes out (Aug 22) – check
• The September issues of fashion mags begin to hit the newsstands – check
• The fall clothes are in the major store windows, no matter how hot it is – check
• The Neiman Marcus “Book” of the fall luxury goods we’d love to have (but probably won’t) comes out – check
• You start wearing the fall makeup trends the last few weeks of August because they’re in all the mags – check
• You know that New York Fashion Week for spring 2011 starts right after Labor Day, as does the big Fashion’s Night Out (September 10) – check

Yes, the list is all checked off, and it’s all coming upon us very fast this year: the onset of fall. Today, Mercedes-Benz, sponsoring the first New York Fashion Week to be held at Lincoln Center on the upper west side, announced that Carolina Herrera is their choice for “Mercedes-Benz Presents designer.” Her spring show will take place Monday, September 13th at 10:00 am at Lincoln Center. The “Mercedes-Benz Presents” program recognizes designers that are dedicated to the use of quality materials, unique style and innovative design over the years. Carolina Herrera has designed for many celebrities including Renée Zellweger, Amy Adams, Michelle Pfeiffer, Emily Blunt, Oprah Winfrey, and Camilla Belle. She joins the prestigious list of past “Mercedes-Benz Presents” designers including Monique Lhuillier, Badgley Mischka, Narciso Rodriguez, and CHADO Ralph Rucci. Meanwhile, Mrs. Herrera could have another triumph this coming weekend: a star or two – or three – wearing one of her sophisticated gowns at the Emmys this Sunday. These are our picks from her fall 2010 collection to be seen on the red carpet this weekend.

Melrose Place, along with Rodeo Drive and Wilshire in Beverly Hills, are fashion central in Los Angeles. And Melrose Place has been playing host to a lot of interesting fashion and art events lately – including early in March, Kimberly Brooks’ “The Stylist Project” group of paintings, which opened at Lead Apron, and was presented by Vanity Fair and Dior. A few months back, stylist and costumer and Harper’s Bazaar editor Jacqui Getty held an art opening with work by her daughter Gia Coppola and some other hip young L.A. ladies who are would-be artists. Now, on March 28th, a bridal event called Unveiled: Bridal Style Revealed is taking place outdoors along tree-lined Melrose Place that Sunday afternoon. During the event, couture bridal designers, Monique Lhuillier, Carolina Herrera and Temperley London will all be opening their doors for specially curated modeling presentations of bridal couture. (These confections of wedding gowns are by Monique and Carolina – they make just exquisite wedding gowns, both of them). The Unveiled event is not forgetting the grooms-to-be with grooms wear and accessories by (more…)

As we saw at the Globes last weekend, the hot colors were pale peach and purple – and ladies who wear colors get MUCH more attention than those in black. Even dark blue or dark green grab more light than a black dress on a red carpet. White grabs the light best of all, but we’ll talk about Kate Hudson and Mo’Nique and Marion Cottilard in a minute. We love the combo of a demure dress in a shocking color. That was what so great about Zoe Saldana’s red Louis Vuitton tiered ruffled gown at the Globes. Carey Mulligan’s chic Lanvin red strapless gown at the SAGS was lovely and elegant for a young small-boned woman. We particularly love the detail – a jeweled brooch at the belt, and some great pleating in the skirt, so that it has some volume – but not too much for the petite Carey. The color was particularly fetching – a more orangey red than lipstick or wine red, both of which have more blue in them. It was flattering with Carey’s short red hair, and really stood out. As usual, we wore very little makeup or jewelry, and let the dress shine, and her personality. In just three awards shows, Carey Mulligan has proved she may not be an Oscar frontrunner (Sandra Bullock has that distinction), but she is a fashion icon frontrunner. The other major red dress of the night was the Carolina Herrera worn by “Mad Men’s” Christina Hendricks. Since her hair is more orange red, it was a bold bold choice – and this is not a tiny woman, this is a bombsell sexpot. With its lovely one shoulder draping and detail, it was a subtle dress in every way but color. Christina’s personality is big, and she carried it off, breaking the “redheads should never wear red” rule – but wearing such pale makeup, she let red rule. And when you wear red, you have to let the color just take over.

Lots of major pieces, in tiny size 2 and 4′s, are bursting into Rodeo Drive as we write – the Diors are showing up, the best of Oscar de la Renta spring 2010, Chanel, YSL, Narciso, Dolce – they will all be in boutiques and major stores and hotel suites for stylists and prs to inspect for the upcoming Golden Globe Awards next weekend (Jan 17). And of course, even if major players aren’t going to the Globes per se, they will be going to parties and small dinners all over town, and still being photographed. But if you’re not a stylist and want to see some of the more gorgeous gowns of the 2010 collections, Carolina Herrera’s spring 2010 collection will have an informal modelling on January 28 and 29 on the third floor of Saks Bev Hills from 1 to 3 – you can pop in and see them for yourself, or even scout some good Oscar gowns for clients. We’re loving Carolina’s bronze, gold and pink gown colors from spring – they look very “next big thing.”

It’s nice to see that in the midst of all those stars – Halle Berry, Salma Hayek, Madonna, Gwen Stefani, Sarah Jessica, Jen and John, John and Jennifer, etc, etc, three big design stars flew in for the Vanity Fair party at the Sunset Tower – and it makes sense, since their clothes are worn in Hollywood all the time. Diane von Furstenberg even has a house here. Zac Posen flew in Saturday night (execs Karen Duffy and Carineh Martin were already in LA, working on Tina Fey’s Oscar gown), and Carolina Herrera turned up, as she does every year. We like Mrs. Herrera’s look and wish someone had worn THAT to the Oscars – but clearly, she saved it for herself.

Everybody’s weighing in on Oscar fashion – even those highly well-dressed women on “The View” (if you didn’t denote a note of sarcasm in print, we’re letting you know – that’s sarcastic!). Consensus has it that Marisa Tomei’s Versace couture had too much fabric and pleating (that’s what designer Randolph Duke said on KABC last night), that Miley Cyrus was dressed far too old, that Kate Winslet looked amazing in her YSL chicness, that Penelope Cruz (in vintage Balmain) and Sarah Jessica Parker (in Dior couture) stole the night – this is what Fashion Rules has to say, since we certainly have our own opinion:

MAJOR HITS  

• Penelope Cruz in her vintage Balmain – the Oscar winner switched it up from black to white, and while her miles of latte-like froth did look a little bridal – it was still a stunner, with her Audrey style hair.
• SJP in Dior Couture – miles and miles of seafoam tulle – if only she’d run down the streets of Manhattan in it now!
• Natalie Portman in Rodarte fuscia – a strapless close fitting body skimming princess gown. She took our breath away – and definitely had the best makeup of the night. Or maybe it’s just the best face.
• Kate Winslet in YSL two tone steel gray and black lace – a fabulous combo, a new style look for the red carpet, a great label, and a great fit. Lots of controversy about that molded hair – we loved it. It’s SO new.
• Taraji P. Henson in white strapless tiered Roberto Cavalli with a major Harry Winston diamond necklace – she looked classy AND like she was having fun – a rare combo. And it fit her beautifully.
• Freida Pinto in John Galliano one sleeved electric blue lace. It looked Indian and Parisian at the same time, and made her look more impossibly gorgeous than she is. And that’s hard.
• Angelina Jolie in Elie Saab Couture. The dress was all about her body – as well it should be. Those green honking Lorraine Schwartz earrings and ring were amazing on her – and a whole different way to go for Oscar jewels.
• Nicole Kidman in L’Wren Scott feathered white gown – fabulous. She wore her longtime stylist’s designer – very loyal, and it looked great. Why didn’t anyone care, though?

MINOR HITS  

• Amy Adams in red Carolina Herrera with a Fred Leighton collar necklace. Redheads in red, it’s an old topic. Essentially, it was a risk – and while the dress fit perfectly, we wish it was green – or blue – red on a red carpet just screams. The necklace was gorgeous, flattered her eyes – but stole the dress’s thunder, and didn’t really work with the color red.
• Viola Davis in an accordian pleat gold deco gown by Reem Acra – very pretty, very appropriate. Very flattering on her.
• Evan Rachel Wood in pale Elie Saab couture – very pretty, and less Goth than usual.
• Marisa Tomei in pale silver Versace major pleated gown with train – okay, so it was a whole LOTTA dress, and the train was high maintenance. It was quite a stunner and a major high fashion dress. Marisa has emerged this awards season as a real fashion risk taker. We applaud her, and loved it.
• Diane Lane in a black Dolce & Gabbana corset gown. It’s impossible for this woman to look bad.
•  Anne Hathaway in white sparkly Armani Prive – okay, we liked the pailettes, even if it weighed two tons, and she always looks pretty – loved the clean hair and red lips. But she looked uncomfortable and weighed down, and we think she could have done better. And she has done better – the Globes dress was MUCH better.
• Tilda Swinton – she toned it down in a blouse and skirt ensemble that was chic, and we like evening separates. Her red lips looked great with it. She’s an Oscar avant gardist, and we love her bravery.
• Tina Fey – she didn’t wear BLACK!!! She wore silver!! She looked HOT!! And cool! In Zac Posen – what a cool NY girl should wear.
• Halle Berry in black strapless and gold Marchesa – pretty.
• Beyonce in a mermaid black and gold House of Dereon design, probably her own. Very sexy.

MAJOR MISSES      

• Heidi Klum in the red thigh-high slit giant collared Roland Mouret: sorry, Heidi – but a fashion professional gets judged even more harshly. You wore a red dress like this to the Oscars before. Come ON, the whole idea is to look different. We love Roland Mouret, but this one looked like something out of “The Jetsons” – and the high slit was more becoming to the Grammy’s. Do you really need that much attention? They better get “Project Runway” back on the air, pronto!
• Vanessa Hudgens in an encrusted Marchesa fishtail black and white gown – too much texture on too tiny a girl. Her hair and makeup were pretty, though.
• Sophia Loren – okay, so she’s an icon, and she’s nearly eighty. She was wearing a child’s dress in an adult size – and a deep fake tan in a yellow dress – please, let’s leave that to Donatella.
• Miley Cyrus – You’ve dressed like you’re 12. Now you dressed like you’re 40. What about 16? That dress by Zuhair Muhrad looked like it might have worked at the Oscars in 1958.
•  Goldie Hawn – Does it matter who designed that beige nightgown? Her tan boobs were falling out, and it was just – embarrassing. Has she ever heard the word “class” – ?

MINOR MISSES  

• Reese Witherspoon’s two tone black and blue Rodarte was fashion forward, but overwhelming on her – she’s too tiny for all that dress. Also, her hair and makeup just flopped. Stylists Claire and Nina Hallworth just don’t do her justice.
•  Jessica Biel – the bow front white Prada was a cool move, a very fashion move – but it obscured her amazing figure. Maybe women liked this dress – but men wanted that big bow GONE. Interesting choice, though.
• Meryl Streep – the dress actually wasn’t that bad. She’s done worse. Now that hair  . . . . .
• Alicia Keys – that lavender Armani Prive gown was great. The hair was WAY too big, and so were those earrings!!!!!
• Jennifer Aniston in silver Valentino strapless – again, she didn’t wear black – that’s major for her. However, leaving her hair down and undone, and wearing an old-school style gown – she looked like she doesn’t care about fashion. And she doesn’t.

   One of the cooler fashion awards shows is always the Independent Spirit Awards, held the Saturday before the Oscars traditionally. It was not exactly a beach day – the clouds were out over the Pacific Ocean – but actresses still had good opportunity to don chic little dresses – some grown up, some hippie like, and some – well, ridiculously overdressed.

                Probably the best dressed star there was Jessica Alba in a pale violet Christian Dior chiffon dress with a corset top with a peach cardigan over it, watched with tan patent Louboutin pumps. 

                Michelle Monahan admitted her New York stylist Mary Alice Stephenson, a former editor of Marie Claire and Harpers’ Bazaar, helped her find her deep blue dress with a bell rounded skirt and crystal studded heels, both by Versace. 

                Michelle Williams played it down in a little striped dress by Chloe

 while Melissa Leo went for full-on hippie glamour, in a long sleeved green and cream print Carolina Herrera gown with a train – a great dress for her – but for daytime? Trains really are not that appropriate for the beach.

               The coolest label, no surprise, belonged to Mary-Kate Olsen, who wore a short Balmain cocktail dress with long sleeves, and a gold trim at the neck. It might have been a nighttime look

 – but if anyone can pull it off, it’s Mary-Kate, of course. She can wear day clothes at night, night clothes by day, and always make it look right. That’s style.

It may not be the right moment for Carolina Herrera. She’s always flourished creating brocade and rather stiff lady clothes for society girls who wish they were ladies – but can afford these clothes. And all those society types sat front and center at Mrs. Herrera’s show, but how do they help the brand? No one out of Park Avenue knows who they are – nor do they care, in this economy. If there’s nowhere for a Park Ave. socialite to go these days, whose going to buy these clothes: smoke and copper tweed coats with brocade skirts and heavily beaded shoes that toppled even some of the best models? We were hoping for some Hollywood hotness from the gowns – but a blue and cassis floral encrusted gown that made the models look thicker are not going to fly on a hot body on a cold day in February at the Kodak Theater.

OVERWHELMING TRENDS: Gazaar blouses, slim over the knee skirts in heavy wools, skinny pants with matching jackets, texturized suits, texturized gowns, copper belts – the belts were the only flattering thing about these clothes.

COLORS: Metallics; copper, silver, gold (it’s all about METALLICS for fall), smoke, caviar, lapis blue, cassis

FABRICS: Heavy: suede, gazaar, floral encrusted chiffons – they looked itchy – and worse, uncomfortable.

BEAUTY TRENDS: Pompadour pulled back hair, pink lips and eyes – a bit rabbity

RELEVANCE TO HOLLYWOOD: Unfortunately for Renee Zellwegger, she’s going to have to search deep for anything to wear to a Hollywood event in here. It’s Park Ave all the way – sashay! If you can in those big beaded shoes! Even the gowns are way too heavy and don’t flow or float – they just kind of drop. A few had a bit of sex – but they were the sexteptions.