NEW YORK Fashion Week Fall 2010 Runway Review: Preen

Feb13

OVERALL: Preen is one of London’s coolest labels, which has shown in NY for years. It’s always had a cool factor, and perhaps it’s only getting cooler – and that is RARE. Cool lines usually only get luke warm after a long cool chilly period – but not Preen. This collection of mostly dresses had touches of Yohji (avant looking suits in black or cream paired with tight white shirts), Dries Van Noten (lovely prints on chiffon, paired with harder more structured pieces), and even Balenciaga (delicate but shaped dresses). We want every single piece in it. It’s wearable, artistic, beautiful and flattering.

OVERALL TRENDS: Winter florals in pink and light blue on black, on chiffon. Keyhole detailing above the breasts – long sleeved knit dresses that expose skin in back and front, but never get tacky – amazing construction to do this! Two tone dresses. Twisted tuxedo dresses. Hard and soft together, as in a black suit with a floral print camisole. Exposed shoulders. Soft ruched dresses in pale grey or lavender with exposed shoulders. Everything shown with bare legs and masculine booties. Lacey nude dresses half covered with black wool.

COLORS: Black, cream, white, purple; prints of pink, light blue and white on black; grey, lavender, tan.

SHAPES AND SILHOUETTES: Dresses just above the knee or just below. Soft to the body with sleeves or sleevless, never tight – but never too loose. The perfect modern shape: softly draping the body, enough to give it great shape, and remain a little modest and dignified. Slip dresses with sweaters over them.

FABRICS: Print chiffon, lace, wool – a lovely mix of hard and soft.

BEAUTY: Hair pulled back, peach lips – a very nude face, very unadorned. No hardness. Very modern.

RELEVANCE TO HOLLYWOOD: These are just great dresses, and some pants, for any chic femme anywhere. They would all look great in L.A. on a Maggie Gyllenhaal or any girl who’s got slightly edgy style. Chloe Sevigny should rock these looks. But they can also got on very young ladies or older ones, too. They work across the board. We want them all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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