WHO: Ohne Titel is one of NY’s hottest young labels – Carine Roitfeld even showed up, giving everyone flutters, and bringing up the label’s heat factors. Its design team is Flora Gill and Alexa Adams.
OVERALL IMPRESSION: These girls do boyish urban girl like nobody else in the U.S. – it’s a little Haider Ackermann, a little Rick Owens, a little Balmain – without the fuss and the finesse. What they do is leaner and meaner, very clean and shaped and tailored and tough – but not grunge. They did a lot of black leather with knit inserts in jackets – we can thank Rick Owens for starting that trend, and helping leather fit better. Now the knit pieces are all over the jackets, not just in the sleeves. And Ohne Titel did leggings with inserts of mesh – the new fall 2010 legging will have patches and inserts and twists of other fabrics in the stretch, and it’s very cool. You might wear all one color next fall – okay, guess what? It’s BLACK! Or maybe grey – or greige – but you will have five different fabrics on. There’s a military edge here, and there’s not much girl in these boyish clothes – but they are very wearable and Alexander Wang-like, and the jackets and leggings will look great in L.A., layered over your thin knits and boots.
MAJOR TRENDS: Texture, mesh, inserts – all one color, but in 3 to 5 different fabrications, adding so much interest and detail. Leather, everything fitted and thin, close to the body, tough, urban, ready for action. Nothing extranenous or fluffy or unnecessary.
COLORS: Black, grey, tan, army green.
BEAUTY: A peach lip, a very peachy eye, no cheeks, no mascara, no eyeliner – and ironed long flat nineties hair. Very unadorned.
RELEVANCE TO HOLLYWOOD: These are fabulous L.A. day clothes or club clothes – hip enough for clubs and the Chateau. But not femmy enough for L.A. date nights. There are no ladies in this crew – only tough girls. But you can pair any of these jackets or leggings with your fall 2009 pieces and really update them. We’d love to see these leggings with floaty chiffon tops and a necklace – this parade of toughness needs a little love – and not tough love! But hey, these are very hip clothes if you’re very thin and have long hair. If not, you could be mistaken for a boy.
